I think I’m finally ready to write about my recent backpacking journey through Wood Buffalo Park. I had a fantastic time and loved every second of the trip.
Fort Smith, my starting point, is very pretty and an easy place to exist. I walked for three weeks and 350 kms through a huge variety of terrain from jackpine and poplar forests to riverbanks to karstlands to salt plains. I saw many bears, a couple of wolves, a couple of hundred bison, beavers, muskrats, squirrels, an otter, many peregrine falcons, northern harriers, white pelicans, flickers, juncos, warblers, woodpeckers, ravens, gray jays, gulls, frogs, butterflies, trees, flowers, berries, and so on. I followed game trails through lands that no one has visited in summer for a couple of decades, I walked on sandy, rarely-used roads, on narrow ski trails above the Slave River rapids, on gravel access roads, and finally on a busy (by NWT standards) paved highway. I went for 10 days without seeing another human being at one point. Except when I occasionally met a vehicle on the roads toward the end of the trip, I was alone all of the time. I was never, ever, bored or lonely.
I was sore and blistered sometimes. Other times, I had to last without water – or drink unpalatable stuff filtered from bison watering holes. I was tired in the evenings. I walked far and my pack was heavy. I lost weight. It rained a lot and I got soaked a few times. One morning I was woken up by a black bear poking its nose in the window of my tent. Another time, I was charged at short range by a very large bull bison. In other words, I was truly alive.
As a walker, I created virtually no impact at all. In three weeks, I spent nothing, never rode in a vehicle, was only indoors for a couple of hours. I generated about two cups of garbage (not counting packaging I threw away at home – perhaps the same amount again). I left behind footprints, a little bit of well-concealed, biodegradable human waste, a few tiny piles of ashes (perhaps a cup or two altogether) not unlike the ashes created by the periodic fires which occur naturally in the area. It felt amazing to live for three weeks with almost zero direct impact on the landscape.
It occurs to me that this trip was probably the first time in my life since I was old enough to get an allowance from my parents that I survived three weeks without spending any money.
I saw thousands of animal and bird footprints on my trip, but not one single human footprint besides my own on the roads or trails. I saw a few footprints at the official park day-use areas and the campground. Otherwise, not a single one. No one ever walks in the park, except from their car to their nearby goal and back. I suspect it is the same everywhere. The world used to be covered with human footprints, but the footprint has almost disappeared – even as our ecological footprints have grown, our actual footprints have shrunk to nothing.